Campagne
de Centeilles
Technical
data
1
- Grape varieties : 80
to 95% of 40-year old Cinsault: average yields of 40hl/ha;
grapes are picked at alcoholic degrees over or equal to 13°.5,
and, for a large proportion, up to 14° G.L
2 - Vinification : Complete
detemming, fermentation in open vats, frquent "pigeages"
during the entire fermenting period, with a total maceration
time of six weeks, the press juice reincorporated into the
free-run wine.
3 - Maturation : 12 to
18 months in enamelled steel tanks (wood is particularly avoided
for this cuvée).
About
the Campagne....
-
Enigmatically, years after years, this cuvée presents
a strange quality: the wines is lean, liely and vigorous to
start with, becoming full and fleshy as it ages in the bottle.
Vertical tastings are very instructive in this matter: if
one had not known previous vintages, as they showed 6 months
after nottling, one might think, on tasting the most recent
cuvées shortly after bottling, that the concentration
of the grapes diminishes with each vintage! one has to conclude,
therefore, that the wine "fills out" as the years
go by.
- Furthemore, the vinification could almost be considered
to be of little importance in this type of wine, which acquires
the main part of its substance from the conditions of development
of such a difficult grape variety as the cinsault, which is
vulnerable to all diseases, and in particular grey rot.
- the specific terroir conditions for this grape variety are
so difficult and limited, that everyone ended up resigning
themselves to making rosé wines or light reds. But
Centeilles remains the first wine estate to make red wines
for laying down from this varietal, the production of which
is regular year after year. However, emulations are gradualy
appearing: other producers are discovering Cinsault. We find
this somewhat satisfying.
Personality
- A clear ruby robe of meduim intensity
- an attractive aroma of young wine which is disconcerting
because it is neither amylic more acidic
- Taste it: no it is not a Côtes-du-Rhône from
the right bank. Yet, how reminiscent of the wines sometimes
produced near Laudun or Lirac it is! With its fruits and spices,
this wine is all mellowness and voluptuousness in which tannins,
alcohol and aroas melt together.
Here
is a wine which does not get its softness from some technology
but simply from most elementary process of nature: a well-exposed
ripens its grapes with no trouble... and gives us a wine which
is not in the least intellectual, but simple, straighforward
and attractive. In short, a wine for those who likes wines
more than concepts.
This
cuvée has only one flaw: being so easy to drink, at
a first superficial examination the drinker is rather inclined
to think that it could hardly go on beyond "the life
of a rose, within the space of a morning". However delicious
the cuvée Campagne might have been, that we happened
to be appreciating at a given time, we have ourselves often
given way to that feeling of ingratitude. In our foolish attachment
to the perennial nature of things, we thought at that moment
that our pleasure would be that much greater if this wine
could be kept and improve even more with time. We also believed
for a long time that softness rhymed with fragility.. Twelve
vintages later, we own up to having lacked faith.
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